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Manaslu is the 8th highest peak in the world in the remote Gorkha region of Nepal.
Manaslu is a new challenge, but we found that we can be just as successful as on Cho Oyo, and in our opinion, this is a better training mountain for Everest than Cho Oyo.
The trip starts with a flight by helicopter from Kathmandu directly to Samagon 3,780m, a small but progressive village set in a lush valley directly below Manaslu. We will spend 3–4 days camping here, doing acclimatization walks into adjacent side valleys.
The trek to Base Camp (4,665m), is up a steep path passing through rhododendron trees adjacent to spectacular hanging glaciers and rugged icefalls. The Base Camp is in a comfortable position on rock, which is protected from strong winds, but because of its particular location is susceptible to daily snowfalls as the valley cloud happens to condense at this altitude.
There is a short walk of one hour over loose rock to the snout of the Larkya glacier, where we will make crampon point. It takes 2–3 hours to climb through the sometimes quite broken glacier to Camp 1 (5,500 m). This may require being roped in traditional glacier travel mode, although it may be possible to fix all potentially dangerous crevasse areas. The method of travel may change during the course of the expedition depending on snow conditions. Camp 1 is situated in a comfortable col.
From here, we climb up towards a massive icefall, but in fact pass underneath this to gain a steep snow slope that will be fixed with rope up to Camp 2 (6,300 m), which is situated in one of the sheltered hollows produced by the series ice cliffs on the route. This is a strenuous day, taking approximately 5–6 hours.
We have elected to put four camps on Manaslu, so the trip from Camp 2 to Camp 3 (6,700m) is not quite so strenuous at 3–4 hours and travels through a series of snow shelves before ascending a steeper snow slope to reach a large col with spectacular views of the surrounding peaks.
From here, the route goes directly up the steeper northeast slopes, passing through a series of short ice bulges to reach an upper snow slope, which leads to a traverse to Camp 4 (7,300m), 4–5 hours.
The summit, which has been elusive since Samagon, is deceptively close. However, it is still a long day up rolling snow slopes, with short, steep sections at times, and this could be in deep snow. Just below the true summit, at 5–6 hours, there is a comfortable place to stop and is where many people do stop. It is our intention to have enough rope, oxygen and time to push a fixed line up the last corniced, unstable ridge, so long as this is safe at the time. Although this is only 50m vertically and 150m horizontally, this will take about one to one and a half hours, return.
The descent is fast and easy, reaching Camp 4 in 1–2 hours. It is best to return to Camp 2 on the same day, another 2–3 hours for a well-earned rest. With a late start from Camp 2, it is possible to be back at Base Camp for a late lunch.
It will take 1–2 days to clear the mountain of camps before the descent to Samagon. As we are dependent upon clear weather for the helicopter ride back to Kathmandu, we must allow for 1–2 days of waiting in Samagon. The 1 ¼ hour flight directly back to Kathmandu is an exhilarating experience. As this trip is very weather dependent for flying and snow dependent on the mountain, We have decided to arrive relatively early after the monsoon to take advantage of any clear, calm periods for acclimatisation to Camp 2. But we have added an extra week to the traditional Cho Oyo expedition in order to have time if there are large snowfalls.
Itinerary
Day 01 : Arrive Kathmandu (1,317m)
Day 02 : Kathmandu
Day 03 : Kathmandu – Samagon (3,780m)
Day 04 – 06 : Samagon
Day 07 : Samagon – Manaslu BC (4,665m)
Day 08 : Manaslu BC
Day 09 – 39 : Manaslu Climbing
Day 40 : Manaslu BC – Samagon
Day 42 : Samagon
Day 43 : Samagon – Kathmandu
Day 44 : Kathmandu
Next Day
Depart Kathmandu Expedition Cost:
Note :
We will provide you the expedition cost as per your size of group or, as per your requirement for the expedition service. We request you to e-mail us and send us your message.
Above given cost does not include the climbing Sherpa’s food & fuel, tents, climbing gears and summit bonus above advance base camp.
Service Includes up to Base Camp:
All land transportation: Airport /Hotel/Airport, trekking, expedition pick up & drop.
5 Nights Hotel accommodations in Kathmandu at 3 star Hotel on Bed & Breakfast plan (before and after the expedition).
Schedule flight Kathmandu/Lukla/Kathmandu for member, Liaison officer and Expedition staffs.
Transport of food supply and expedition equipments to Base Camp and back.
Full board in lodges during trekking to base camp and back.
Base Camp single sleeping tent & Mattress for each member, BC staffs and Liaison Officer.
All kitchen tent, store tent, dining tents, toilet tent, table and chairs and cooking utensils for Base Camp.
Food and fuel at Base Camp.
Service of Government Liaison Officer.
Service of cook and kitchen boy at Base Camp.
Equipments allowance, daily wages of cook, kitchen boy and Liaison officer.
Insurance of cook, kitchen boy, Liaison Officer and porters.
Expedition Permit fee of Mt. Lhotse.
Sagarmatha National Park entrance fee.
2 Expedition duffel bag for each member.
Generator or Solar panel at Base Camp for light and charging.
Sat Phone available at Base Camp, but nominal charge for use.
Emergency medical oxygen at Base Camp.
Visa extension fee.
Agency service charge.
Service does not include:
International airfare from / to your country.
Nepal entry visa fee (can be obtained at the airport at upon arrival).
Lunch and dinner during your stay in Kathmandu.
Hotel after 5 night stay in Kathmandu.
Personal climbing gear and equipment above Base Camp.
High Tents above Base Camp.
High altitude food and fuel above Base Camp.
Oxygen & Mask and regulator (will be provided as per request).
Personal insurance such as travel, accident, medical, emergency evacuation and lost luggage.
Applicable permit fees and customs charges, etc. for SAT phone, communication equipment and commercial filming.
International airport departure tax at Kathmandu Airport.
Expenses of personal nature such as drinks, laundry, postage, telephone etc.
Tips and bonuses.
Garbage deposit.
Expedition service up to Summit:
All land transportation: Airport /Hotel/Airport, trekking, expedition pick up & drop.
5 Nights Hotel accommodations in Kathmandu at 3 star Hotel on Bed & Breakfast plan (before and after the expedition).
Schedule flight Kathmandu/Lukla/Kathmandu for member, Liaison officer and Expedition staffs.
Transport of food supply and expedition equipments to Base Camp and back.
Full board in lodges during trekking to base camp and back.
All kitchen tent, store tent, dining tents, toilet tent, table and chairs and cooking utensils for Base Camp.
Base Camp single sleeping tent & Mattress for each member, BC staffs and Liaison Officer.
Food and fuel at Base Camp.
Service of cook and kitchen boy at Base Camp.
Service of Government Liaison Officer.
Equipments allowance, wages of cook, kitchen boy and Liaison officer.
Insurance of cook, kitchen boy, Liaison Officer and porters.
Expedition Permit fee of Mt. Lhotse.
Sagarmatha National Park entrance fee.
One high altitude Sherpa per climber to carry all food and gear to higher camps. Also assist the member during climb and summit attempt.
4 oxygen bottles (4 lts) per member with mask and regulator (for use only) " Poisk oxygen system".
Common climbing equipment (necessary rope, ice bars, ice screws, etc).
Common climbing equipment such as ropes, ice screws, ice bar, pitons, etc.
Walkie-talkies for each member base unit at Base Camp.
High altitude food.
High altitude fuel.
High altitude tents.
2 Expedition duffel bag for each member.
Generator or, Solar panel at Base Camp for light and charging.
Sat Phone available at Base Camp, but nominal charge for use.
Emergency medical oxygen at Base Camp.
Visa extension fee.
Agency service charge.
Service does not include
International airfare from / to your country.
Nepal entry visa fee (can be obtained at the airport upon arrival).
Lunch and dinner during your stay in Kathmandu.
Hotel after 5 night stay in Kathmandu.
Personal climbing gear and equipment above Base Camp.
Personal insurance such as travel, accident, medical, emergency evacuation and lost luggage.
Applicable permit fees and customs charges and commercial filming.
Oxygen & Mask and regulator (will be provided as per request).
Expenses of personal nature such as drinks, laundry, postage, telephone etc.
Tips and bonuses.
Garbage deposit fee.
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